Water testing is perhaps the most important maintenance function you will have to perform. The following are some guidelines as to what to test for and how to gauge the results of those tests:
Ammonia - Very harmful to fish and will cause stress, lower resistance to disease, damage gills and skin or even result in death. Ammonia is a waste product excreted through the fish's skin and gills or through buildup of fish waste or decaying food. In new aquariums, ammonia can rise to 6 ppm or more but will decrease as your biological filter becomes established, which can take a few weeks. Reading should be kept to 0 ppm to ensure fish health. Test for Ammonia weekly and more often for new aquariums.
Alkalinity - Buffering capacity determines ability to maintain a constant ph in water. Ideal level for saltwater tanks is 180 to 300 ppm and 120 to 300 ppm for freshwater tanks.
pH - The measure of acidity or alkalinity in water. 7.0 is neutral, lower than 7.0 is acidic and higher than 7.0 is alkaline. Proper pH is perhaps the most important factor in a successful Aquarium. Correct pH ensures your fish and plants stay healthy.
Nitrite - A waste product produced by bacteria in the biological filter as it breaks down ammonia. Nitrite levels should be kept below .5 ppm. Anything higher can be deadly to your fish. If Nitrite is detected, then ammonia is also present and should be tested separately with Pentair Aquatics Ammonia Test Strips.
Nitrate - A byproduct of nitrifying bacteria in the biological filter, breaking down ammonia and nitrite. It is consumed by plants and algae as a food source, but high levels can lead to excessive algae growth and damaged plants. Nitrate levels are best kept below 40 ppm.
Hardness - A measure of calcium and magnesium in the water. Most fish and plants prefer a hardness level of 50 to 150 ppm. Hardness below 50 ppm can affect pH and over 150 can result in formation of white mineral deposits on equipment.
Chlorine/Chloramine - Most water systems use chlorine (chlorine and ammonia) to destroy harmful bacteria and organisms in drinking water. These chemicals, while not harmful to humans are deadly to your fish. Since chloramine is more stable than chlorine (Total and Free), it is difficult to remove. To ensure the safety of your fish, it is important to test tap water before adding it to your aquarium. To determine chloramine reading, subtract Free Chlorine from Total Chlorine reading. Water conditions are safe when all readings are 0.0 ppm.
